Only in Paris by Duncan J.D. Smith

7 Contents 58 Cabaret at Gill’s Rabbit 141 59 New Vines for Old Montmartre 143 60 Paris on the Big Screen 146 61 On the Mount of Martyrs 149 62 A Visit to a Hindu Temple 151 63 A Litany of Liturgies 153 NORTHEAST SUBURBS 10 th Arrondissement L’Entrepôt, 11 th Arrondissement Popincourt, 12 th Arrondissement Reuilly, 19 th Arrondissement Buttes-Chaumont, 20 th Arrondissement Ménilmontant 64 Concealed Courtyards and Secret Squares 155 65 Illuminating the City of Light 158 66 In the Sparrow’s Nest 160 67 Like an Army of Shadows 162 68 Paris at Work 164 69 Peace amongst the Gravestones 167 70 Hagia Sophia in Miniature 169 71 All the Fun of the Fair 171 72 On Colonialism and Immigration 173 73 The Curse of Vincennes 175 74 Navigating Saint Martin’s Canal 177 75 The Little Hills of Paris 179 76 Remembering Georges Brassens 181 77 The Waters of Belleville 183 78 “To Live, to Die, to Be Reborn” 185 79 Exploring Urban Jungles 188 SOUTHERN SUBURBS 13 th Arrondissement Gobelins, 14 th Arrondissement Observatoire, 15 th Arrondissement Vaugirard 80 Tapestries for the Sun King 190 81 Looking for a Lost River 192 82 An Experiment in International Living 194 83 Dinner Chez Jim 196 84 Entering the Empire of Death 198

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